Wake Up at the Farmers Market

Wake Up at the Farmers Market

It starts at the corner brat stand, where my tired senses come to life. Each Saturday morning, we funnel in to the rows at the downtown farmers market. The earthy stink of the raw milk sheep cheese pulls me to the right, but then I am jolted into a field of lavender baskets. Across the aisle is the small woman who fries egg rolls, and then all I want to eat is a paper cup of egg rolls. Most alluring are the tables of Hmong growers with their unidentifiable wares, and I flirt with their English-speaking children who tell me what is what. Amaranth, I’ll take some, Malabar spinach, what to do with that.

The farmer market is an adventure, a place to wake up, certainly a place to eat. Turns out, this week’s meal plan is a tribute to the farmers market. Nearly all on the shopping list can be found there, beyond your pantry staples. Here is a recipe from this week’s plan that goes to show, the simple and utterly flexible spring roll. A perfect dish for a long, quiet holiday weekend like this one; a communal dish to put together and eat together.   

Endless Spring Rolls

Makes 8 rolls (or as many as you like…)

Endless because there are too many ideas for fillings, and there are endless rolls to make. My eyes are usually wider than my belly when I sit before a long platter of spring rolls. This is a communal dish, to make and eat and share. My young daughter can fill hers with whatever she fancies, and they are so enjoyably clumsy to put together (at first). Rolling these takes a bit of practice, but after you’ve made one or two, you’ll get the hang of it. Keep in mind, these rolls aren’t ideal for storage, and so make them close to when you’ll be eating them.

MARKET LIST

Rice wine (or white wine) vinegar
Chili oil
1 garlic clove
3 tablespoons of roasted peanuts
Sugar
Rice vermicelli noodles (2 ounces/ 8 rolls)
Your Fillings (refer to the Endless Fillings section)
Rice paper roll wrappers (8 ½ inch)


Peanut Dipping Sauce

Make your sauce first; it will want to relax anyhow and allow the flavors to mingle. Combine in a bowl: 2 tablespoons of rice wine (or white wine) vinegar, 3 tablespoons of water, 1 teaspoon of chili oil (consider, this will add significant heat), 1 garlic clove (minced or shredded), 3 tablespoons of roasted peanuts (chopped), and 1 teaspoon of sugar.

Rice Vermicelli

Rice vermicelli noodles give these rolls a foundation and substance, but you can always omit them if you prefer. Soak and drain about 2 ounces rice vermicelli per the package directions, and set aside.

Endless Fillings

Consider that you’ll be using a handful of filling per roll. Here is a just an off-the-cuff list of spring roll fillings; please mix and match and make them to your and your eaters’ taste. Ready your fillings now and lay out on a platter or plate.

Protein: cooked (perhaps leftover) pork, lamb, shrimp, fish or seasoned tofu

Vegetables, etc: carrots (peeled strips, or matchsticks), mushrooms (sliced), cucumber (peeled strips, or matchsticks), avocado (sliced), spring onions or scallions (sliced), chilies (sliced), kohlrabi (matchsticks), radishes (sliced or matchsticks), Asian greens (shredded), cabbage or lettuces (shredded), summer squash (matchsticks), cress or sprouts, fresh ginger (matchsticks)

Herbs: Chopped or whole leaves of cilantro, basil, mint

Spring Roll Wrappers

Prepare to soak 8 rice-paper roll wrappers (8 ½ in.) individually, right before you are ready to fill and roll each parcel; this only takes a moment. (You are simply trying to rehydrate these dried sheets, and make them pliable for rolling.) Fill a wide bowl or deep plate that has a larger diameter than the wrappers with warm water, and soak the wrappers one-by-one by sliding into the warm water. Leave the sheet there for a few seconds—any longer and it will become too soft and sticky; you are really just dipping it into the water. Remove the moistened (but still slightly firm) sheet and place it on your cutting board; leave it for a moment before filling and rolling.

Let’s Roll

Arrange a generous amount of your fillings in a rough line about an inch away from the edge nearest you. Fold that shorter edge over and tightly tuck it below the filling, then roll again to secure it. Bring up the left and right sides of the paper and fold them over. Carry on rolling until you’ve rolled it entirely. Set the finished roll on a plate covered with a lightly-dampened tea towel while you perform the same theatrics with the rest of your spring rolls; protect the other finished rolls beneath the moistened towel.

You’re Done

Well, unless you’d like fancifully plate your rolls. Choose to slice them down the middle on the diagonal, and arrange them just so. No matter, serve with a small dish of dipping sauce. Voila!

5 Questions: Tony Grossman

5 Questions: Tony Grossman

Meet Tony Grossman, seriously active dad to three animated, freckle-faced kids, and owner and beginner- farmer at Earnest Acres Farm in Wisconsin. He is the chief cook in the family, a sustainable-farming advocate, and as you’ll see, a prolific taco maker.

What does eating well look like for you?

Eating well, for me, would include: produce that is seasonal and locally-sourced as possible, meats that are not tainted with antibiotics, hormones, or torture/immoral living conditions, and grains that are whole and diverse. Eating well also mandates a comfortable space, shared with loved ones and anyone who is hungry. It demands calmness and gratitude towards those who sacrificed to either grow or be the food, and gratitude towards those who cook the food.

What is a favorite and reliable everyday dish for you and your family?

Breakfast Tacos. I lived in central Texas for 3 years of my life and can proudly say that for most of those mornings I had a breakfast taco. Why we bold northerners have not figured out that this is the most efficient and wholesome way to start a morning, I do not know. Tacos are easy to make, and can include almost anything from your fridge if paired and cooked right. Maybe I love them because I don’t like to follow recipes and you can wing tacos in every way; they are the easiest conduit for getting eggs and veggies into my children. Maybe I love them because other than coffee, nothing smells better than fried onions in the morning. I’m not sure, but my family always seems to be happy after a good breakfast taco.

Can you share a defining food memory?

Upon moving back to Minnesota I serendipitously landed a job at the Seward Co-op Grocery and Deli as a produce worker. I worked alongside intelligent lovers of food and sustainable farming practices, people striving to eat better and support a local food system. After three years I was totally and completely inspired to grow as much food as possible in as many places as possible. I was inspired to eat whole foods grown sustainably and to provide seasonally-appropriate meals (as often as possible anyway) to my children, no matter the cost to the food budget.    

What topics around food are you most interested in, and why?

I love to grow food. I love to experiment with growing food. So naturally any knowledge or information pertaining to this peaks my interest. One of my favorite things is to listen to older generations talk about the past, but growing food in particular is fascinating for me. Beyond this I am interested in advancing towards change in our food system. I believe that in some ways our country’s system of eating and distributing food has led us down a path of poor health. I believe we need to motivate future generations to learn how to grow their own food and to support a cooperative model of food sharing.

I have to ask. What would you hope for as a last meal on this earth?

For sure it would be a meal prepared by someone else. Food always tastes better to me whenever someone else cooks it. I would probably demand a full Indian-style buffet banquet with paneer in every dish.

Fried Rice

Fried Rice

Dear Dad,

Something strange happened while I was on the floor of my office, fingering through a bottom row of cookbooks on that short red shelf, as I pulled Beyond the Great Wall, a Chinese cookbook you gave me years ago, that wide and hefty thing, another book fell into my lap simultaneously called From the Kitchens of Belfast 1975, worn and construction-paper bound that had come nearly out of its plastic spiral spine, I thought what is this, I hadn’t remembered it, but I was right away enthralled since I lived in Ireland and finished culinary school there, but you already know that, and when I opened to the first page there was a stamp marked The Hamakers, Box 5494, Kingsport, TN 37663, your parents and I’ve no idea how to put it together since they never lived in Ireland and I’ve no food memories whatsoever related to them, all but Grandma’s busy tin of Christmas cookies, but what was strange was this: my reason for pulling Beyond the Great Wall off the shelf in the first place was to research a recipe I was developing for vegetable fried rice, and while flipping through From the Kitchens of Belfast 1975 noticing the book weighing heavily on desserts and casseroles and only a single page devoted to vegetables, I turned there to that one page and there it was, fried rice, a recipe recorded under the vegetable category, fried rice, and this was the entire recipe:

Icebergs & Flip Flops: Spring in MN

 
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April in Minnesota is comic. Stubborn icebergs of snow along city boulevards we soon walk over wearing flip flops. Suddenly it is warm, very warm. But only after a historic blizzard swathed two weeks ago, we find ourselves propelled into the spirit of summer.

I sat surprised in the warmth of the new sun on our front porch, watching passers-by skipping and smiling along in their release from our brand of winter prison. I felt it too, I admit. Cold beer in hand, dusted-off sandals, a warm and familiar wind disarranging my hair.

Suddenly I am skipping a couple of months, April and May, the dead-zone period in Minnesota when local produce is painfully absent. Strawberries are conjured in the imagination, rhubarb is there too. Something cold to beat back the teasingly warm sun. And there it came to me: a fruity granita. The grown-up slushy, with pureed fruit, a simple syrup, and maybe some booze, or herbs or ginger. Yes, this should resuscitate, if even for a moment or a single warm day in Minnesota in April.

Try out this refreshing and palate-cleansing treat. Not at all difficult to make, but it does need a bit of your attention while it freezes: make this when you’re around for an afternoon (particularly a warm afternoon), and include the kids in the process.

Rhubarb & Strawberry Granita

Serves about 4

MARKET LIST

1 cup water
½ cup granulated or fine sugar
½ pound rhubarb stalks
2-3 cups strawberries
1 lemon

 

Simple Syrup

A simple syrup is the result of boiling water and sugar together to create a sweet base for many a cocktail and in this case, for a refreshing dessert. In a heavy, medium saucepan combine 1 cup water and ½ cup granulated or fine sugar over high heat, and bring to a boil. Once it boils, turn down the heat to medium-low, and allow the sugar to dissolve; about 2 minutes. Stir in ½ pound rhubarb stalks (trimmed and coarsely chopped). Simmer until the rhubarb is tender, about 5-10 minutes. Then set aside to cool slightly.

Blend and Scrape

Meanwhile, chop 2-3 cups strawberries. Add the strawberries and the rhubarb mixture (all contents from the saucepan) to a blender. Squeeze in the juice of 1 lemon. Puree until smooth, and then transfer to a baking dish (9-inch is ideal). Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. Using the tines of a fork, stir every 30 minutes, scraping edges and breaking up any ice chunks. (This practice ensures that your granita doesn’t just freeze into a solid block, but is loose and flaky.) Do this for 2 ½- 4 hours, or until it is finally frozen and slushy.

To serve, scoop into small serving dishes, wine glasses, or shot glasses. The granita can be kept frozen for up to a week, but it is best eaten with a few days of making it.

 

NOTES & VARIATIONS

  • Experiment with additions to this granita. For instance, rhubarb pairs well with ginger, citrus fruit, honey, maple syrup, mint, raspberries, and if you want to add a touch of booze, consider brandy, vodka, or Grand Marnier. Also, if you have orange blossom or rose water on hand (we’ve used it in recipes past), add a teaspoon of either of those into the blender to accentuate flavors. 

Stripped Down

 
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A piece of writing in a mainstream food publication struck me as truthful this week. It asks the question, are we losing our appreciation for subtle, delicate flavors in the current sea of flavors that are bright and bold? We are inundated with spicy, salty, sweet condiments but more than that, there is such competition to arouse our palates by food manufacturers for instance, and restaurant chefs. We’re growing accustomed to flair, and are increasingly hypnotized by variety. With that, it is getting more difficult to appreciate naturally delicate, or pure and or old-fashioned flavors.  A stalk of spring-grown asparagus grilled or blanched without dressings or a slice of just-picked cucumber or melon can resonate on the tongue and remind us just how delicious unadulterated food can be. 

Spring is the right season for considering this. It is the season for stripping down food to its essentials, for simplifying, and moving away from the multi-layered and rich flavors of winter. Lightly dress an arugula and cress salad, poach a chicken breast, make a clean and brothy pea and ham soup or a hard-boiled egg just dusted with black pepper. This is the way to approach spring eating, but even outside of spring it’s a good exercise in simplifying and noticing. Seasonal foods are wonderful at giving us this opportunity since they are already at their peak in flavor (and nutrition) and need little or no dressing up. In spring we look for greens of all kinds, asparagus, ramps and green garlic and spring onions and chives, and radishes for instance; look for those in your local market and see how they qualify as fast-food, in the best possible way.

 

Grow a Few

 
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Herbs that is, or a few easy-to-grow vegetables. Like lettuces and radishes, or laid-back perennials like chives and rhubarb. It’s that time of the year, at least in the upper Midwest, where I live. Stubborn patches of dirty snow still cling to areas of the garden, but they are kindly receding. See the dried-up, honey-colored remnants of leaves and stems--a positive green will soon take their place.

A cup of tea, a piece of draft paper, and some optimism this weekend as I curate the edible garden.

I talk so much about cooking and eating, but I have equal adoration for growing; it being one of my building blocks. Like the practice of cooking, gardening is as humbling and rewarding an adventure. My yard: hardly an area of full-sun, especially with our one backyard maple tree increasing its canopy over the garden each year. Yet I still tuck in peppers and tomatoes and melon plants with giddy optimism. Maybe a single melon will grow, hardly a pepper; those are the sun-lovers. But so much does transpire: peas, herbs, berries, and beans.

If you don’t grow your own food, I nudge you to start now. Start small and playfully and modestly. A few of your favorite herbs, in the ground or in pots, in the yard or on a bright windowsill. Maybe some lettuce leaves, my favorite being the short cut-and-come-again style, alongside a few radishes. That’s all. Start there. These are all relatively simple and forgiving plants to grow. You’ll be impressed by their freshness and flavor, and you’ll be inclined to eat them: the point.


Here's an article on the best garden crops for beginners. Food for thought!

I get personalized updates in my inbox on what to plant and when from The Old Farmer's Almanac. A rather nifty tool in case I get disorganized, which of course I do.

Seed Savers Exchange is my absolute favorite company for sourcing garden seeds. Absolutely, you can order online, and warning: scintillating food porn in the pages of their catalog.

If you haven't a patch of green (or sill or stoop for which to put a few pots), explore some community gardens in your area for a rented patch of your own.

No gardening for you, you say. Support a local grower by subscribing to a CSA farm share nearby to you, and reap what they sow. 

5 Questions: Hilary Gebauer

 
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Hilary knows a lot about good eating. She is a practicing dietician by profession, a mother/feeder to a young daughter, and has worked with CSA farms and farmers markets in various capacities. All around, she is a lover of food, especially bread. Read on…  

What does eating well look like for you?

For me, eating well means eating with intention. That might mean cooking up a family recipe that reminds me of my childhood, picking out veggies at the farmers market in summer and letting them inspire the menu for the week, finding a new recipe or method of cooking and trying it out, or it might mean sitting down in front of the TV with takeout after a long week. When I'm eating with intention, I'm able to check in with myself and know what I'm needing, both nutritionally and emotionally. 

What is a favorite and reliable everyday dish for you and your family?

Right now, I'd probably say bread. I was lucky enough to grow up in a household where my mom baked all of our bread from scratch every week. I'm trying to continue the tradition with my own daughter, so I try to keep a few loaves of sliced, homemade bread in the freezer at all times. A quick dinner of grilled cheese or a snack of cinnamon toast is never far away for a hungry toddler when you have bread in the freezer! 

Can you share a defining food memory?

Just one? I grew up hating fish, but one of my best food memories is of eating fish. When I was 18 I had the opportunity to travel by canoe in the Northwest Territories for 45 days with YMCA Camp Widjiwagen. We ate what we carried with us, so we didn't really have anything fresh the whole trip. We hardly saw another human, but right at the end we ran into some fishermen. We told them about our trip and they immediately insisted we take their daily catch. That night we had fresh arctic char, pulled straight from the lake and cooked in a foil packet with butter (oh that butter!) potatoes, onions and carrots. It was such a simple meal, but probably one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten in my life.

What topics around food are you most interested in, and why?

Oh goodness, where do I start! I'm a public health dietitian by training so I have a lot of professional interests in food. But I also love to cook and eat and share food with friends and family so there are a lot of topics that are of personal interest to me as well. The thing that spans both my personal and professional interests is helping people have a good relationship with food that leads them toward wholeness, and that is going to look different for everyone. But I love helping people have a positive connection with food, seeing them get excited about trying something new or learning a different way to view nutrition.

I have to ask. What would you hope for as a last meal on this earth?

My mom's homemade bread. Or my husband's homemade pizza. Or maybe a reuben sandwich with my sister-in-law's homemade sauerkraut and my brother's pastrami, he's really good a smoking pastrami. I suppose I would just want it to be something made with love, by someone I love!

 

 

Cupboard-Inspired

 
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A strong pantry is a sexy thing. Really, it says I’m ready to go and want for nothing. It says give me a few minutes, maybe a half hour, and I’ll make you something delicious. It says listen: I’m organized, resourceful, potentially frugal (if that sort of thing turns you on), and probably improvisational, which speaks to creativity and flexibility.

Maybe. At least that’s what I vibe when I see a well-armed cupboard, but that’s me. I believe that a strong pantry (and by pantry I mean something bigger such as cupboard, fridge, and freezer), with its ground cumin and smoked paprika, canned beans and bulk grains, and eggs and lemon for example, has the potential to see you through many scrappy (but satisfying) meals on its own. 

But there’s more. Not only is a strong pantry a self-sufficient thing, it allows us to enhance what else we bring into the house. A rotisserie chicken, for instance. Using our staples, let’s pair it with some rice. Or shred it into a chicken salad with olive oil, herbs and lemon. The carcass, along with stock vegetables, can gift us a pot of broth. Further, our pantry can extend what we already have, such as dull-looking leftovers reinvented with an over-easy egg on top and a drizzle of good olive oil. (We do this often enough in our house.)

With further zeal I'll say this: a strong pantry offers us a foundation. And foundation is what we need with any practice; we can always refer to it and use it to step forward. I have a built an entire page on the Basic Pantry and still believe in its magical powers. Visit that list, and see how your kitchen stacks up. Be imperfect about acquiring these things at first. Do what you can, gather some of them on sale, and others from a little spice shop you just happened into.

Want more? Register for my Cupboard-Inspired class at the Mississippi Market Natural Foods Co-op in St. Paul. We'll discuss the build of a strong pantry, how to make the most of it, and chatter about all its benefits.

Meal Planning with Chef Kristin: Cupboard-Inspired

$18-22
Tue, May 22, 2018
6:00 PM – 8:00 PM CDT

Mississippi Market- East 7th
740 East 7th
Saint Paul, Minnesota 55106

REGISTER HERE